Rating Arizona Coffeehouses

A cappuccino from Sola, a welcome addition to downtown Scottsdale.

Ah, beverages! They’re so polarizing. My post about the best microbrews in Phoenix may have caused PBR-swilling hipsters to scoff, and induced conniptions among those who prefer The Raj IPA to The Trooper IPA.

And coffee? To adapt a phrase from a great football (the English kind) sage, “Some people think coffee is a matter of life and death. But it’s much more important than that.” Some people swear by the 25-cent coffee at Krispy Kreme. As you might expect, I’m not among them. In the spirit of the craft beer post, here are my ratings for selected coffeehouses in Arizona.

Before I get into the ratings, here’s how I evaluated: I’m a cappuccino drinker. Nothing gets my goat more than overly bubbly foam, nuclear-hot temperatures and bitter flavors. Though I’m a cap loyalist, I awarded some props for unusual espresso creations. I like some of these shops better than others, but none of them will steer you wrong. Also, let me offer big thanks to Chris, writer of the Arizona-Coffee.com Web site; his listings and news helped me find some of these great coffeehouses, and he’s elevating the status of quality coffee in Arizona.

Okay, onto the ratings! NOTE: If I don’t mention your favorite coffeehouse (especially if it’s in Tucson), it’s not because I think it sucks. I can only rate the coffeehouses I’ve actually been to. If you have strong opinions that include different coffeehouses, post your own list in your blog and send me a link – it’s be great to give readers some info about places I haven’t yet tried. And feel free to comment your dismay at my stupidity or your agreement at my caffeinated studliness.

Lux (Phoenix) – The baristas at Lux are all pretty skilled. But here’s the problem – I don’t care for their roasting style. The staff roasts on the premesis. They do it the way they like it, which I consider over-roasted – and no amount of barista skill can change that. Lux also has a lot of quality baked goods, which they supply to Sola Coffee Bar (see below). I have to knock ‘em for atmosphere, though. While the staff is friendly, the patrons have a hipper-than-thou vibe that makes it rare for me to stop in. And I just don’t like loud DJs with my coffee.

Press (Phoenix) – There’s a bleak, soulless hole in the desert called CityNorth that’s either a punchline or a curseword. It’s also controversial. That notwithstanding, it’s also home to a gem of a coffeehouse. I stopped by on the way to a bike ride. I was a bit skeptical since the guy behind the counter barely needed to shave. But I’ll tell you what – he took his time and did it right. His cappuccino looked as good as those at Cartel – a little art in the microfoam, and not too much of that foam. Just perfect. No bitterness. Temperature right on the money. I think Cartel has better beans, though. A second visit featuring a different barista was just as excellent. North Phoenix should consider itself lucky.

Coffee Rush (Gilbert) – Okay, this one was a surprise. I stopped in there on the way out to rehearse with my new musical side project. I didn’t have high hopes walking in there. But the manager/barista, a Mediterranean-looking cat, scored with an expertly made cap. No bitter taste, perfect temperature, and a bit on the dry side rather than overly foamed. The place also has public computers, and doesn’t seem to be in a race to cater to hipsters. It seems like a “give customers what they want” sort of place: If that’s liquid candy, no skin off theirs. If that’s a cappuccino done right, they have that covered, too.

Cartel Coffee Lab (Tempe) – If this list was strictly about cappuccino quality, Cartel might go to the top. They prepare the caps with much less foam, which I’ve really come to like. The temperature is spot-on, and there’s never a bitter flavor. They also have a Clover machine. Some of the baristas are really personable (especially the one who half-shouted “I love making cappuccinos!” after I ordered). But some are indifferent, and still others contain all the bitterness that got leached out of the coffee. To owner Jason’s credit, though, they’re all uniformly skilled and committed. The clientele isn’t overly warm, either. Cartel supplies beans to Conspire and Sola, by the way. They’ve also opened a location in downtown Phoenix. Details at Arizona-Coffee.com!

Conspire (Phoenix) – Some people sneer at “coffee snobs” and their “$5 dollar coffee drinks.” At Conspire, an outstanding cap is just $2.75. Barista-in-Charge John always delivers the goods, even after a late night lording over the First Friday crowd – his protege Tara is also super-skilled. There’s not much seating, but a talkative and welcoming band of regulars provides the atmosphere. Also, the vegan donuts and cookies are better than anything vegan should be. You won’t get scoffed at here for ordering something sweet, either.

Late for the Train (Flagstaff) – Flagstaff may be a laid-back mountain town, but LFTT’s staff is not laid-back about coffee. They give each cup their all, and I have never had a single drink there that wasn’t 100-percent satisfying. They’re so good, actually, that I rarely have just one drink – very unusual for me! I start with a cappuccino, then finish with a Dave’s Rockhammer. Sarah’s choice is the Metro Retro. There’s no pretense or snobbery here, either. A very friendly place.

Sola (Scottsdale) – Well, here’s another one sneaking into an unusual spot! Sola is surrounded by rubber tomahawk shops and faux-western watering holes in downtown Scottsdale. It’s a much-needed injection of genuine character. Sola keeps things low-key: The music is at a reasonably volume, the decor is plain, the menu is simple. And it’s all perfectly executed. Both baristas I encountered made outstanding espresso creations (one cap, one shot), and they were very friendly. They’re using beans from Cartel, too. The cappuccino was on the short side, just how I like it. Props to Sola!

There are a few other places with potential, but aren’t quite up to the level as these others. Urban Beans, Three Roots, Ground Control and Lola could pick up their game a bit, in terms of barista skills. They’re not far off, and could catch up if they want to.

In the “Way Better than Starbucks But Not Quite There,” I have Copper Star, Drip, Hob Nobs, Fair Trade and Mama Java. All decent places, but not quite as consistent as those in the second tier.